Tools of the Trade

Here are some general shop views.  I have tried to make the layout so that similar operations are grouped together and that the dirtiest operations are furthest from my watch bench.  I also have tried to make it as simple as I can to make adjustments while fitting pieces.  For example, just behind my assembly bench is my staking/polishing/filing bench.  Over my left shoulder is my small lathe bench where I can quickly setup for adjusting or making a balance staff.  All accessories are very near the machine to which they belong.  That sort of thing.

Above is my assembly bench.  I keep the top clear except for oil, the piece and the tools I need just then.  Below you can see the small lathe bench over my left shoulder when sitting and my staking/polishing bench is right behind me.  To my right is my cleaning machine and next to that is analytic scale which I use when doing things such as replacing timing screws for watch balances.  You might also note that the bench is raised on feet so that the work is a neck height, I keep my bench enclosed as much as possible to prevent the loss of parts.  I also have sealed every floor to vertical surface joint within 15 feet of my bench.

An important note about cleaning.  It is extremely  important to know how to properly use ultrasonics.   I set the unit to barely buzz and on fragile pieces I will turn the ultrasonic unit off.  This is because ultrasonic cleaning is only an assist to the cleaning solution.  It works by cavitation which is the explosion of gas bubbles on the surface of the parts and is meant to loosen dirt to improve the action of the cleaning solvents.  If set too high, it literally begins to blast away molecules of the movement.  Any  watchmaker who doubts me on this has only to look at his watch baskets to see the erosion and pitting on his/her baskets that has occurred over time. 

You may notice that I have found light to be one of my most important tools.  In addition to North facing windows, every station has task lights and the walls are painted eggshell for reflection.

A cautionary note to those setting up a shop.  Once stuff gets in the door or put in service you are less likely to clean it up.  I prepared my shop room some 15 years ago.  I can't bear the thought of tearing it all apart so that I can repaint although I am satisfied with the layout.  Paint and electrify before you move any serious equipment into the room.  Similarly, disassemble, service and paint all machine tools before you put them into service.  BTW, the joke is that we get our shops in perfect form just in time for our widows to sell it.  Those who have kept track of my site have seen machines and layouts come and go.  You can even find photos in my photo series of projects that show equipment that has long since been sent on for someone else to  use.

Below is the view of the two "heavy" benches that are directly behind me when I am at my assembly bench.  The furthest one is a post WWII Alfab bench made using aircraft grade aluminum skin.  This is the only bench I ever found in which the drawers were designed for the kinds of boxes and tools a watchmaker has.  The other bench drawers use the space very inefficiently.

On top of the white cabinet is a 30vdc 30A variable voltage and variable current regulated power supply.  Although used infrequently, it does have its uses. 

This has turned out to be a lathe I literally can't live without.  It is a Swiss Habegger 102 (8 inch swing) tool maker's lathe.  I used to have a Levin 10mm inch mounted instrument lathe; but I sold it within 6 months of acquiring this lathe.  As you will see in other pics I still a Levin 10mm I use for some operations, but THIS is the lathe that makes my heart sing. I use this lathe for preparing material for all sorts of jobs and I make tools and jigs on it. The dividing and milling attachments enable me to cut wheels as large as 6 inches in diameter.

The heat treating oven is to the right of the lathe.

Below is my small lathe bench.  On the right is my carbide sharpening station; right next to my Levin 8mm lathe that I use for small turning.  To the left of the Levin is an auxiliary drive unit I use for driving the pivot polisher attachment and my Steiner turns.  Then is my Levin 10mm that I use for preparing wheel and pinion blank and next to that is a horizontal mill to which I mounted a WW bed for use as wheel/pinion cutting station with the 10mm headstock as an index head. 

The lathe below is my Levin 8mm lathe.  I use this lathe quite a bit for preparing staff blanks which are finished on the Steiner and for the usual kinds of work.

I have mounted all my small machine tools on 1/2 inch aluminum plate.  They are driven by Sherline motors and I have adapted the electronics to include a reverse switch and a foot operated on/off switch.  This frees me from hunting for the right speed with a traditional rheostat.

When I am making a balance staff or need to make a part that MUST be perfectly concentric, I finish the blank on this Steiner Dead Centers lathe.  The work is suspended between two pointed (or hollow cup) bearings and is driven with the aid of a pin temporarily attached to the work.  The advantage of a dead center lathe is that the work can be removed for measurement or fitting and replaced any number of times with complete assurance that the work will always be returned to the same position.  It is the ONLY way to ensure "truth" when a piece must be removed prior to being fully machined.  The Steiner lathe is better than all other dead center lathes because of the way the system is thought out.  It is very easy to use and nothing gets into the way of the turner when he is working.  This is the only dead center lathe that is still made today.

Below is an example of how I group equipment.  The collets and usual accessories for the 8mm lathe are immediately to hand.  The shelf under the lathe holds my gravers, stones, additional rests (such as filing rest, small t, L rest, etc).  You can see how easy it is for me to sharpen my carbide gravers.  The instant I notice the graver is not cutting I turn to my right and touch it up on the diamond wheel.  I try to compensate for being human by making it difficult to take the easy the out.

I have the above lathe permanently set up for sharpening carbide gravers and grinding operations.  When turning, it is very pleasant to be able to swivel your chair and touch up your cutting tools.  Grinding is very destructive to the bearings of a lathe.  for this reason, I have chosen to set up a "cheap" lathe as my sole grinding station.  It is the only place where I kept the traditional sewing machine motor.  But there is only a foot on/off; no speed control.  You want diamond wheels turning as fast possible so it is either full on or off.

This mill is the tool  I use for cutting  smaller gears and pinions.  I also use it for general precision milling when I need to make jigs or squared arbors.  It is an older horizontal mill with a WW lathe bed bolted to the table (squared with the spindle of course).  This enables me to mill the wheel or pinion without removing the work from the headstock, I simply transfer the entire headstock from the turning station to the milling station.  Also, by transferring the tailstock from the turning station as well, I have an accurate, rigid system for milling pinions.  It came to me with a lever feed table which is good for wheel cutting but not for pinion cutting.  I made the screw feed with a feed screw assembly from a Southbend lathe.   By removing two cap screws I can quickly revert to the lever feed for wheel cutting.

Although I use it infrequently, the vertical mill is a Godsend when I need it.  I can also use it as a drill press.  The Sony Digital Read Out enables me to locate positions to within 1/100th of a MM.  This technology measures the location of the table relative to a magnetic strip mounted on the non-movable casting and eliminates errors due to imperfections in the lead screws or wear.

Another machine I have come to appreciate is this Sanford bench top surface grinder.  I have used for everything from reducing the heights of  watch mainsprings to reducing hardened detents to size on this machine.  Note it is on casters and near the door for shooting the dust outside when in use.

This tool, while not often used by me, has "pulled the fat out of the fire" several times.  It is used for the size of gears so that they properly mesh and provide the smooth transmission of power in a timepiece.  I have used it to adjust newly made wheels, and to adjust teeth I replace in damaged wheels.  Tooth replacement is desirable in historically important pieces in which the primary goal is to preserve originality.  As a note, this particular topping tool is rare; it is chronometer maker's sized tool which can also deal with the smallest watch gears.

I don't know WHY I have two sensitive drill presses; I just can't part with either.  One is a Levin which takes 8mm collets and the other is a Schaublin which takes a special capstan collet.  Also, the Schaublin is driven by an Orient AC speed control motor.  It works great so I have not switched to the Sherline motors.

This is the crystal fitting area.  Glass crystals ALWAYS need to be ground to size, despite having a full assortment of glass crystals.  It is improper to enlarge the watch to accept the crystal.  The cardinal role in restoration is "Fit the replacement to the original".  

The automatic watch cleaning machine does an extremely effective job when the watch is completely disassembled.  It is a mistake to think these machines will allow the restorer to get away with only partial disassembly.  All cap jewels have to be removed, the mainspring removed from the barrel, and all parts removed from the plates in order to the most effective removal of old oils and grit.  The precision scale on the right (sensitive to micrograms) is used for making timing weights.